TEHRAN -- Woven from hand-spun wool and marked by bold geometric patterns, mowj is one of the traditional textile crafts that has long been part of everyday life among the nomadic and rural communities of western Iran.
Also known locally as jajam, the textile is traditionally produced on a simple four-shaft loom, using wool spun by hand from locally available sheep’s fleece. Its distinctive patterns often appear in deep navy, dark blue, yellow and red, creating the large checks and geometric motifs characteristic of the craft.
According to Farzad Sharifi, director general of Cultural Heritage, Tourism and Handicrafts in Ilam province, mowj weaving has deep roots among Kurdish communities in western Iran and was historically closely connected to household life in nomadic and rural settlements.
Two main forms of the textile are traditionally produced.
The first is a prayer rug, generally measuring about 100 by 150 centimetres. The second is a larger textile known as a mowj or bedding wrap, traditionally made to order from four woven panels. Each panel is typically two metres long, while its width ranges from about 45 to 75 centimetres depending on the thickness of the yarn.
For generations, making these bedding textiles was an important household activity during periods when agricultural and pastoral work was less demanding. Wool was readily available in communities where livestock raising was central to the local economy, while the weaving equipment itself was relatively simple.
Weaving can take place throughout the year, although production traditionally intensifies from late spring through early winter. The complexity of a piece is closely linked to the number of shuttles used during weaving.
Among traditional weavers, the number of shuttles operating simultaneously is also an indicator of quality. More shuttles allow for denser and more intricate designs, increasing both the labour involved and the artistic value of the finished textile.
Traditional motifs include kashkuli, howzi, chakmaki, small geometric patterns, checks, simple designs, seh-howzi, kabki and geleh-geleh, among many others.
In the weaving process, each color incorporated into a pattern is associated with a shuttle, while points where different colors intersect are also counted as individual shuttles. The technique allows weavers to build increasingly elaborate geometric compositions from a relatively simple loom and locally sourced materials.
In recent years, mowj has increasingly moved beyond its original practical uses and into the decorative and contemporary handicraft market. As its role has changed, so too have the size, form, materials and patterns used by artisans.
Yet the craft retains a close connection to the pastoral and rural traditions of the Zagros. Its hand-spun wool, geometric language and labor-intensive weaving process continue to reflect a way of life in which textile production was not simply an occupation, but an integral part of the household economy and cultural identity.