MEHRAN, Iran -- At the crossroads of faith and geopolitics lies Mehrān, the bustling border town through which over a million pilgrims have passed this season en route to the sacred sites of Iraq. 
Since the beginning of Safar, the second month of the Islamic calendar, Mehrān has witnessed a tide of humanity — weary travelers making their way toward Karbala for Arbaeen, one of the largest religious gatherings in the world.
Ahmad Karami, the governor of Ilam province, spoke of the “unprecedented” flow of pilgrims, detailing how in just a few hours on a recent day, nearly 100,000 people crossed the border — most departing, some returning home. 
Behind the scenes, a complex choreography unfolds: government agencies working around the clock to ensure that the passage is as seamless as possible, a feat made more challenging by soaring summer heat and the sheer volume of devotees.
Mehrān is no ordinary crossing; it is the beating heart of a pilgrimage that weaves together faith, tradition, and identity. Each year, millions trace this route, drawn by a devotion that transcends borders and politics. 
Last year alone, 3.5 million pilgrims passed through, and this year’s estimate promises an even greater number, a testament to the enduring power of ritual and community.
As the sun sets and the heat wanes, the border breathes with renewed energy, pilgrims moving steadily forward in the quiet hours, embodying a journey both deeply personal and profoundly collective. 
In Mehrān, the sacred and the secular meet, and the restless march of humanity presses on — searching, arriving, crossing, returning.