ROME (KCRW) -- Some time in recent history, the modern form of Italian-ish pasta found its way into Iran. However, it’s a mistake to think that Iranians have been strangers to noodles and pasta in general.
In fact, one of the oldest written records of noodles is lakhsha, known in eastern parts of Iran and Afghanistan as lakhshak, supposedly “invented” by the Sasanian King Khosrow. The same word traveled to Central Asia and Eastern Europe, becoming lapsha in Russia and laska in Hungary, both meaning “noodles.” Perhaps the most famous noodle in Iran today is reshteh (literally meaning “string”), which stars in the hearty bean, herb, and noodle dish ash reshteh, and reshteh polow (pilaf with noodles).
Khingal, a popular dish in Azerbaijan, is made of wide noodles, not unlike lasagne, that are boiled, then dressed with ground lamb and onion, a lot of yogurt, and minty oil—a condiment also used for many noodle dishes in Turkey, such as manti (mini dumplings).
In Iran, any pasta in general is now called makaroni in domestic use (if we don’t count the trends of recent years, where you can find penne and fusilli on restaurant menus, complete with amusing Iranian pronunciations).
The typical makaroni sauce is definitely inspired by a classic bolognese, but somewhere along the way it’s been tamed and domesticated to fit the Iranian palate, with so much golden onion, a touch of turmeric, cinnamon, and saffron, and only just a hint of tomato paste.
Remarkably, the method for cooking Iranian makaroni is precisely the same as for Iranian rice —parboiled, drained, and then steamed under a tea towel–clad lid for too long a time for pasta, which as a reward results in an awesome makaroni tahdig, soaked in the oils and flavors of the Iranian sauce.